New York Fashion Week kicked off the SS23 season with a packed schedule that included local heavyweights as well as European luxury visitors.
Tommy Hilfiger put on a star-studded show for his return to the program after a three-year hiatus. Kate Moss, Kourtney Kardashian Barker, Travis Barker and singer Shawn Mendes celebrated their comeback by attending the show, which was held in Brooklyn.
Michael Kors, Tom Ford and Coach have also carried the American fashion flag. Glamor prevailed at Kors, which showed flowing sequined dresses and clean-cut preppy suits. Tom Ford’s show was typically sexy, with a sprinkling of metallic suits and sparkly disco-inspired dresses. Coach took a more laid-back approach, with oversized patchwork leather jackets and vintage-inspired letter sportswear taking center stage.
And the city welcomed a few tourists – the Italian men’s and women’s ready-to-wear brand Marni presented itself for the first time in New York, and dedicated its SS23 collection to the eternity of the sun, available in shades fiery red and orange. Countrymate Fendi celebrated 25 years of its Baguette bag with a collection dedicated to style. The brand collaborated with fellow designer Marc Jacobs, Sarah Jessica Parker, Tiffany & Co and Japanese luggage brand Porter on selected looks to help it celebrate.
Drapers takes a look at the six biggest trends from New York Fashion Week.
Fashion is equipped to explore next season: the catwalks were full of layered looks perfect for going outside. Fendi’s special anniversary collection featured utilitarian details, such as reflective straps, gloves and fanny packs.
At Tommy Hilfiger, a collaboration with London designer Richard Quinn produced an oversized puffer jacket in Quinn’s signature bold floral prints. Coach provided its models with oversized safari-style jackets, satchel bags and baseball caps, while Altuzurra opted for several thick layers, including untucked shirts and the style of two sweatshirts on the same model, supplemented by outerwear.
The designers made hippie buzz at New York Fashion Week. Proenza Schouler showed homespun with more glamor to handmade pieces: crocheted dresses in shimmering yarns and white knit camisoles were complemented with tassels at the shoulder.
The Italian design house Marni played tourists in the Big Apple and presented a collection dedicated to the sun, available in shades ranging from pale yellow to dark lilac and pale white. Crochet was a continuous texture within the collection, used for women’s cutout tops and lightweight sweaters.
Delicate, sheer fabrics were a mainstay on the New York catwalks. At Tory Burch, the looks included a play on sheer stitching – for example, a sheer shirt and pants in a subtle shade of lilac.
The look was stepped up at LaQuan Smith, who showed off a series of barely there looks, including a cobalt blue mini dress with a flowing train. Deveaux returned to the catwalk after a three-year hiatus, layering a sheer dress and shirt with utility pockets.
The city that never sleeps returns to workwear, but with a relaxed approach for the summer season. Amy Smilovic, creative director of womenswear brand Tibi, showed off a relaxed figure. Blazers and wide leg pants were oversized and worn with a crew neck top or faded print t-shirt.
Peter Do also showed off oversized tailoring, some looks were finished with frayed and raw hemlines, adding to the laid back effect. Up-and-coming label Luar played with proportion, emphasizing the shoulders of a pinstripe shirt and deconstructing the classic suit by pairing an inverted blazer with a classic white shirt.
It wouldn’t be New York without a fierce dose of animal prints. Brand Buzzy Khaite featured a snake print in gray tones in its collection which was used for clean cut belted jackets, bodycon pencil skirts, loose shirts and high waisted trousers.
At legacy brand Hudson, leopard print reigned supreme in a boldly printed 1970s-inspired suit. Emerging designer Victor Glenaud showed off a classic leopard print, seen in a variety of dress shapes, from bodycon pencil silhouettes to halterneck mini hems, crop tops and leggings.
Everything that shines…
New York is the city of refined glamour, and that was reflected on next season’s runways, which were full of shimmering metallic patterns. Jason Wu showed off a 1920s-inspired flapper dress adorned with gold tassels.
Precious metals were a highlight of designer Gabriela Hearst’s SS23 collection, where models paraded in a flowing jumpsuit and slip dress resembling liquid gold, while a suit gave a structured approach to the trend. Michael Kors paid homage to golden girls with polo necks and shimmering sequin dresses.